The stuff we wish someone had told you.

付Paying for things

• China is close to cashless. Set up Alipay and/or WeChat Pay before you fly — both accept most foreign Visa and Mastercard cards.
• You pay by scanning a shop's QR code, or by showing yours. Small fees can apply on larger payments.
• Still carry a little cash (RMB) as a backup — some small stalls and older vendors prefer it.

机Apps worth installing

• Amap (高德地图) — the most accurate map in China. Apple Maps uses its data too.
• DiDi — ride-hailing, with an English interface. Also available inside Alipay.
• A translation app with camera mode, for menus and signs.
• Trip.com — trains, flights and hotels in English.

网Internet

• Google, WhatsApp, Instagram and many Western apps do not work on local Chinese networks.
• Roaming on your home SIM, or a travel eSIM bought before you arrive, usually keeps them working.
• Download offline translation packs before you land.

长Changsha in a nutshell

• Capital of Hunan province, famous for spicy food, late nights and a very young crowd.
• Hunan Museum — free, world-class (the Mawangdui tombs). Book a slot online in advance.
• Orange Isle (橘子洲), Yuelu Mountain (岳麓山), and old streets around Taiping Street (太平街).
• Evenings: Wuyi Square (五一广场) and Pozi Street (坡子街) for food and crowds.

吃What to eat

• Stinky tofu (臭豆腐) — black, crispy, better than it smells.
• Spicy crayfish (口味虾) — a summer night classic.
• Sugar-oil cakes (糖油粑粑) — sticky, sweet, fried.
• Rice noodles (米粉) — what Changsha eats for breakfast.
• Sexy Tea (茶颜悦色) — Changsha's own milk-tea chain. Yes, that is really the name.

话Ten words to start with